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Churches in Genoa's Historic Centre: A Walking Tour Through the Caruggi
Tucked away among the narrow streets of Genoa's historic centre are churches that tell centuries of stories through their art, architecture and unusual details. Some are closely connected to the city's powerful noble families, others preserve traces of medieval Genoa, while a few have particularly surprising origins, including a church built above a row of shops.
To discover some of the most interesting churches in Genoa's historic centre, we've put together a walking itinerary through the caruggi, the city's characteristic narrow alleyways. Five stops that reveal some of Genoa's lesser-known stories.
It's an easy route to follow if you're staying centrally. At Hotel Astoria Genoa, you can choose your room and set off to explore the old streets and the history behind them.
1. San Siro, Before San Lorenzo Became Genoa's Cathedral
Our walking tour begins at Via San Siro 3, just a short distance from Via Cairoli and Via San Luca, where you'll find one of Genoa's oldest churches. Before San Lorenzo took over this role, the Basilica of San Siro was the city's cathedral.
Little remains of the original building. Following a fire in 1580, the church was rebuilt in the Baroque style we see today. Inside, take time to admire the frescoes by Giovanni Battista Carlone and the imposing high altar in black marble and bronze, created by the French sculptor Pierre Puget.
There's also an unusual legend associated with the church. According to local tradition, Bishop Siro freed Genoa from a basilisk, a mythical monster hiding in a well. The story is depicted in the frescoes of the choir: see if you can spot it during your visit.
Visitor information: The entrance is at Via San Siro 3. Allow around 20–30 minutes to explore the interior. For opening hours, check the Archdiocese of Genoa website.
The next stop is the Church of San Luca, just a few minutes' walk away along Via San Luca towards the square of the same name.
2. San Luca and the Church of the Grimaldi and Spinola Families
From San Siro, continue along Via San Luca until you reach the small square of the same name, home to one of the most distinctive churches in the caruggi. Founded in 1188 by Oberto Spinola on land belonging to the Grimaldi family, the Church of San Luca is an example of a chiesa gentilizia, a private family church closely associated with Genoa's powerful noble families. It remains the Spinola family's church to this day.
Don't be fooled by its modest size and relatively simple façade. The interior, rebuilt in the 17th century, features elaborate Baroque decoration, including frescoes by Domenico Piola and Anton Maria Haffner. Look up at the dome to appreciate the perspective effects of the paintings, then take a closer look at The Adoration of the Shepherds by Grechetto and the marble statue of the Immaculate Conception by Filippo Parodi, positioned on the high altar.
Visitor information: The church is located at Piazza San Luca 1. Admission is free and, according to the opening hours published on the Spinola family website, it is open from 8:00 am to 12:30 pm and from 3:00 pm to 6:30 pm, subject to changes. Allow approximately 15–20 minutes for your visit.
After leaving the church, continue along Via San Luca towards Piazza Banchi. Within a few minutes, you'll reach the next stop, where you'll discover an unusual connection between commerce and religion.
3. San Pietro in Banchi, the Church Built Above the Shops
Continuing along Via San Luca, you'll reach Piazza Banchi, once the centre of Genoa's commercial and financial activities. Here, next to the historic Loggia dei Mercanti (Merchants' Loggia), stands a rather unusual church: San Pietro in Banchi, built in the second half of the 16th century above a row of shops.
Its elevated position is no coincidence. Construction was financed through the sale of the commercial spaces beneath the church, providing a compromise between the interests of the Lomellini family and the townspeople's desire to build a new place of worship.
Before going inside, stop to admire the frescoed façade and the staircases leading up to the portico. Inside, look out for the Christ Without Hands, a plaster statue symbolising the responsibility of individuals to carry out acts of solidarity.
Visitor information: The church is located in Piazza Banchi. According to Centro Banchi, it is open Monday to Friday, from 9:00 am to 6:00 pm, although opening times may vary depending on volunteer availability. It's advisable to check before visiting. Allow approximately 15–20 minutes.
From the square, head towards Piazza De Ferrari, passing through Via Orefici and the streets of the historic centre. Your next stop is the Church of San Matteo, closely associated with one of the most powerful families of the Republic of Genoa.
4. San Matteo, the Church of the Doria Family
From Piazza Banchi, continue towards Piazza De Ferrari and turn into Salita San Matteo. You'll find yourself in a small square surrounded by medieval palaces, home to the Abbey of San Matteo, founded in 1125 by the Doria family, one of the most powerful dynasties in the Republic of Genoa.
Before entering, take a look at the distinctive black-and-white striped façade. The white marble bands still bear inscriptions celebrating the achievements of the Doria family, while the surrounding palaces reveal just how much the family influenced the architecture of this part of the city.
Inside, which was remodelled in the 16th century, you'll find frescoes by Luca Cambiaso and Giovanni Battista Castello. One interesting detail is the crypt, where the famous admiral Andrea Doria is buried. The small 14th-century cloister is also worth visiting, although access from the church is only possible at designated times.
Visitor information: The abbey is located at Piazza San Matteo 18 and is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:00 am to 12:00 pm and from 3:00 pm to 7:00 pm, and on Sundays and public holidays from 9:00 am to 12:00 pm. It is closed on Mondays. The cloister has different opening hours, which you can check on the parish's official website. Allow around 20–30 minutes for your visit.
To reach the final stop, head back towards Piazza De Ferrari and continue towards Piazza delle Erbe and Via San Donato, where you'll discover another important example of medieval Genoese architecture.
5. San Donato and Medieval Genoa
From Piazza San Matteo, make your way to Piazza De Ferrari and continue towards Piazza delle Erbe before turning into Via San Donato. Here stands the Church of San Donato, one of Genoa's finest examples of Romanesque architecture, with origins dating back to at least the 11th century.
Before entering, take a moment to admire the stone façade and, in particular, the unusual octagonal bell tower, which rises directly above the body of the church. For a better view, head towards Stradone di Sant'Agostino.
Inside, the columns reveal the different phases of the building's history: some date back to Roman times and were reused, while others, with their distinctive black-and-white bands, belong to the medieval expansion. Among the artworks to look out for is the Adoration of the Magi triptych, painted in 1515 by the Flemish artist Joos van Cleve.
Visitor information: The church is located at Via di San Donato 10. You can check the latest opening hours on the parish's official website. The church is open Monday to Saturday from 10:00 am to 12:00 pm and from 3:30 pm to 6:30 pm, and on Sundays and public holidays from 10:00 am to 12:00 pm. Allow around 20 minutes for your visit and check for any changes to opening hours before setting off.