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Wines, Olive Trees and Oil Mills: Discovering the Ligurian Hinterland in Autumn

  • veronicameriggi
  • 21 ore fa
  • Tempo di lettura: 6 min

Autumn in Liguria is the time when the land awakens with scents and ancient gestures. In the vineyards, the last bunches of grapes are harvested; in the oil mills, the new olive oil season begins, and the inland valleys come alive with voices and movement.


Those setting out from Genoa can enjoy a different kind of experience — a day among hills, olive groves and wineries, where Ligurian autumn wines are shared through tastings and encounters with local producers. It’s a short but rich journey through nature, tradition and flavours that belong uniquely to this season.


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Wines Produced in the Genoese Hinterland


Among the hills of the Genoese hinterland, where the coastline gives way to woods and olive groves, ancient vineyards continue to thrive, producing authentic, deeply local wines. The Val Polcevera is the heart of this small-scale production, defined by steep slopes and manual cultivation.


The wineries, often family-run, preserve an agricultural tradition that unites sea and mountain, giving the wines a salty freshness and mineral character. In autumn, when wine tourism in Liguria slows down and becomes more intimate, it’s the best time to visit: barrels are filled, the new wine is ready for tasting, and the hills glow with the colours of the season.


Bianchetta Genovese


The Bianchetta Genovese, the symbol of the Genoese hinterland and the Val Polcevera DOC, is a dry, light white wine with notes of wildflowers and citrus, fresh on the palate with a pleasant hint of salt. Once the everyday table wine of Genoese farmers, it’s now being rediscovered and appreciated by small local producers. It pairs perfectly with traditional Ligurian dishes — vegetable pies, cheese focaccia and fresh fish.


Vermentino del Tigullio


Grown throughout the region, Vermentino takes on distinctive characteristics in the Genoese hinterland: intense aromas of Mediterranean herbs, fruity undertones and a marked minerality. It’s a versatile, refreshing white wine — ideal for those who want to taste the sea even when the vines grow in the hills. The wineries of the Tigullio and Golfo Paradiso produce elegant versions, often from grapes grown on sunny terraces cooled by sea breezes.


Dolcetto and Other Reds from the Hinterland


Alongside its whites, the Genoese hinterland also offers characterful red wines such as Dolcetto — soft and fruity, with aromas of cherry and almond. It’s a genuine wine, perfect with cured meats, aged cheeses and meat dishes. Some producers also grow Barbera and Ciliegiolo, used in blends that combine body and freshness, while maintaining a strong connection to the local land.


Wineries to Visit near Genoa


The Genoese hinterland offers several opportunities for those seeking an authentic tasting experience, away from the usual tourist trails. In Val Polcevera, just a few kilometres from Genoa’s centre, the Cooperativa Valpolcevera — one of the area’s historic wineries — offers tastings of Bianchetta Genovese DOC, Vermentino and other local wines directly in the cellar. Nearby in Coronata, Terre di Coronata produces white and red wines from grapes grown on the hillsides overlooking the city, with guided tours and direct purchases available.


Those seeking a more rural experience can head to Murta or Sant’Olcese, where small family-run wineries such as Azienda Agricola Bruzzone or Cà du Rissu carry on local winemaking traditions with limited but distinctive production. Tastings here often take place right on the farm, beside the vineyards or in old wooden cellars, and are paired with typical Ligurian products such as focaccia, cold cuts and cheeses.


Another recommended stop is Serra Riccò, home to Azienda Agricola Villa Cambiaso, which offers wine tourism experiences among the vineyards and tastings of white and red wines from the Val Polcevera DOC. All these wineries are easily reachable from Genoa in less than thirty minutes by car, providing a simple, genuine way to discover the city’s agricultural side — among hills, vineyards and family stories. Visiting in autumn means experiencing the atmosphere of the just-finished harvest and tasting the new wine, a symbol of a quieter, more authentic Liguria.


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New Olive Oil and Open Mills: the Green Heart of Liguria


With the arrival of autumn, the Ligurian hinterland fills with the scent of freshly picked olives and the constant hum of the oil mills. Between October and November begins the season of new olive oil in Liguria, a much-awaited time for farmers and for visitors who love to discover products directly where they are made. The olives are still harvested by hand, as in the past, with nets spread beneath the trees and brought to the mill within hours to preserve their freshness.


The hills around Genoa host some of the region’s most distinctive olive varieties. The Taggiasca, typical of western Liguria but also common in the Genoese area, is small and sweet, perfect for producing a soft, delicate oil. The Lavagnina, grown in the Tigullio and inland valleys, yields a fruitier, more aromatic oil with hints of almond and artichoke. The Razzola, on the other hand, grows on steeper, rockier slopes, producing oils with a stronger, slightly peppery taste. All these varieties share low yields but high quality — the reward of a rugged yet generous landscape.


Visiting an olive mill in Liguria in autumn engages all the senses: you can watch the cold pressing, taste the oil as it flows fresh from the separator, and notice how its flavour evolves day by day until it reaches its final balance. In many inland areas — such as the Val Fontanabuona, Sori or Recco — small mills open their doors for tastings and direct sales. Some even host themed weekends, like OrgOlio Liguria Weekend, an event celebrating local olive culture and producers.


Authentic Experiences in the Olive Mills of the Hinterland


Visiting Ligurian olive mills in autumn means stepping right into the heart of the agricultural season. In the small villages of the Genoese hinterland — from Sori to Uscio, Neirone to the Val Fontanabuona — visitors can watch the olive pressing up close and learn how extra virgin olive oil is made. The mills welcome guests to observe every stage of production: hand-picking, milling and cold pressing, which preserves flavour and quality.


Many local farms also offer guided tours and tastings among the olive groves of Liguria, often paired with freshly baked bread, vegetables and local cheeses. It’s a chance to understand the region’s olive oil culture directly from those who produce it, hearing family stories and appreciating the care behind every bottle.


One of the most popular events is OrgOlio Liguria Weekend, held annually between November and December, when dozens of mills across the region open for guided tastings, walks through olive groves and direct sales of new oil.

These experiences are the most authentic way to enjoy autumn in Liguria — a mix of nature, tradition and flavour that captures the true spirit of the region’s rural life.


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Walks among Vineyards and Olive Groves: Discovering Liguria’s Hidden Side in Autumn


An autumn excursion in the Genoese hinterland is one of the best ways to experience the real Liguria — a land of hills, quiet paths and genuine flavours. The cooler days and golden light of the season are perfect for exploring trails through vineyards and olive groves, passing between small villages, old mule tracks and scenic viewpoints overlooking the sea.


A gentle route starts in Sori and climbs toward Uscio, following ancient rural paths that cross chestnut woods and vineyards. Along the way, you can stop at a small farm for a tasting of local wine and olive oil, often served with freshly baked bread or focaccia. The area around Recco also offers panoramic walks that connect the coast to the inland hills — ideal for those who want to combine light hiking with local food experiences.


Further east, between the Tigullio and the Val Fontanabuona, trails link villages such as Neirone, Favale di Malvaro and Ognio, surrounded by agricultural landscapes still shaped by dry-stone walls and terraces. Many farms here welcome visitors for guided tours or tastings, creating a direct link between walking, nature and local production.


Autumn days in Liguria are clear and mild — perfect for slow travel. Combine a walk through the hills with a stop at a winery or olive mill to meet the people behind these traditions and take home the taste and scent of this unique land.


Living Liguria in Autumn: Nature, Flavour and Relaxation in Genoa


Spending an autumn stay in Genoa means discovering the city and its inland areas at a slower, more authentic pace. It’s the ideal season for a weekend of flavour and nature: a stroll through the narrow alleys of the old town, a trip among vineyards and olive groves, or a tasting of new wine and olive oil in a small local farm.


The Hotel Astoria is the perfect base for this autumn experience in Liguria. From its central location, guests can easily reach the hills of Val Polcevera, the Tigullio and the villages of the Golfo Paradiso by car or train, as well as museums, markets and restaurants in the city centre. After a day of tastings and walks, returning to the hotel means finding comfort and calm, with the warmth of genuine Ligurian hospitality.


Autumn in Liguria is made of simple pleasures and sincere encounters: a glass of Bianchetta Genovese in a family-run winery, new olive oil tasted on bread, the scent of the sea drifting up to the hills. Experiencing Genoa in this season means truly getting to know it — through nature, flavour and quiet moments of relaxation.


 
 
 
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