Traditional Dishes of Genoa: What to Eat Between History and Authentic Flavours

Genoa is a city you can recognise by its scent. Walking through the caruggi—the narrow alleys of the old town—you can smell freshly baked focaccia or just-made pesto. The traditional dishes of Genoa tell the story of a simple cuisine, born between sea and mountains, made with humble yet characterful ingredients: olive oil, aromatic herbs, vegetables, legumes, and fish. Every recipe has its own story, often linked to the habits of sailors, the products of the Ligurian hills, or daily life in the historic centre.

Eating in Genoa means getting in touch with its true identity. From focaccia genovese to trofie al pesto, from cima alla genovese to pandolce, each dish is a fragment of history still passed down in bakeries, family kitchens, and traditional trattorias. In this article, you’ll discover what to eat in Genoa, the origins of its most iconic dishes, and where to taste them to truly understand what makes Genoese cuisine unique.

Genoese Starters and Street Food: Simple and Irresistible

Genoa’s cuisine isn’t just about elaborate dishes or long cooking times. It often begins with something easy to eat with your hands—perfect for a snack or an aperitif by the sea. Starters and Genoese street food reflect the city’s most authentic side: the focaccerie, the local bakeries, and the small kiosks filled with the smell of good olive oil and flour. These dishes were originally created to feed workers at the port or in the fields quickly, but today they represent one of the most genuine culinary experiences for anyone visiting Genoa.

Focaccia Genovese: The Symbol of Genoa

No true Genovese starts their day without a piece of focaccia dipped in coffee or takes a walk without one in hand. Focaccia genovese is made with just a few ingredients—flour, water, extra virgin olive oil, and coarse salt—but its simplicity is what makes it unmistakable.

Thin yet soft, perfectly oily, it can be found in every bakery across the city. Common variations include onion focaccia, olive focaccia, and versions with cheese or herbs. It’s eaten warm, straight from the oven, at breakfast, as a snack, or for a quick lunch.

The difference between focaccia genovese and focaccia di Recco: the first is a soft, leavened flatbread, while the second is a thin, unleavened dough filled with fresh cheese and baked until crisp. Both are symbols of Ligurian cuisine, each with its own personality.

Focaccia di Recco with Cheese (IGP)

Focaccia di Recco with cheese (PGI) originates from the small coastal town of Recco, between Camogli and Sori, along the eastern Riviera. It consists of two thin layers of unleavened dough filled with fresh, soft cheese and baked at high temperatures until golden and crispy.

The PGI regulations specify that the cheese must be fresh and mild and that production is limited to a few municipalities in the Golfo Paradiso area. This centuries-old recipe has been handed down through generations and is now protected by a consortium that ensures its authenticity.

Besides being one of the typical dishes of Liguria, it’s also one of the region’s most beloved specialities—best enjoyed hot, straight from the oven.

Farinata and panissa

Among the oldest Genoese dishes are those made with chickpea flour, a humble but versatile ingredient. Farinata is a thin, savoury pancake baked in a wood-fired oven until crisp on the surface and soft inside. It’s served hot, sliced, and found in every sciamadda—the traditional Genoese fry shops.

Panissa, on the other hand, is a denser version of farinata: the chickpea mixture is left to cool, cut into strips or cubes, and fried. It can be eaten on its own or in a sandwich, as a classic Ligurian street food.

Alongside these, there are frisceu (vegetable or cod fritters) and stuffed vegetables, simple dishes born from a no-waste cooking philosophy. All share the same spirit: few ingredients, big flavour, and a deep connection to Genoese tradition.

Genoese First Courses: Trofie, Pansoti and Sauces Full of History

Genoese cuisine is renowned for its first courses—simple yet full of flavour. Handmade pasta, sauces with herbs and nuts, and condiments made from local ingredients tell the story of a city that cooks with balance and creativity. Each valley has its own version of a dough or sauce, but the philosophy is always the same: make the most of what the land provides.

Trofie and Trenette al Pesto: The Most Famous Dish of Genoa

When you think of traditional Genoese dishes, pesto immediately comes to mind. This iconic sauce is made with Genoese Basil PDO, extra virgin olive oil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmesan, Pecorino, and a pinch of salt. Traditionally prepared with a mortar and pestle, it can also be blended—provided the basil’s freshness and creamy texture are preserved.

The most typical pasta to pair with pesto are trofie and trenette. Trofie are short and twisted, ideal for holding the sauce, while trenette—similar to linguine—are more common along the coast. According to tradition, both are served with boiled potatoes and green beans.

This is Genoa’s most famous dish: simple, green, fragrant, and deeply tied to the city’s hills.

Pansoti with Walnut Sauce

Less known to visitors but beloved by locals, pansoti are a stuffed pasta typical of eastern Liguria, especially in the areas around Recco, Camogli, and Sori. The thin dough is filled with preboggion, a mix of local wild herbs, cheese, and eggs, and folded into triangular or half-moon shapes.

The traditional sauce is a walnut cream, made with walnut kernels, garlic, milk-soaked breadcrumbs, extra virgin olive oil, and a pinch of salt. The ingredients are blended into a smooth paste and thinned with a little pasta cooking water before serving.

It’s one of the most beloved dishes of Genoese cuisine, often served on Sundays or in the city’s historic trattorias. A perfect example of how Ligurian tradition transforms simple ingredients into unmistakable flavours.

Ravioli al tocco

Ravioli al tocco represent the heartiest and most homely side of Genoese cooking. The tuccu (from the Genoese tòccu) is a meat sauce simmered for hours with wine, vegetables, and tomato. The meat isn’t minced but left to release its flavour into the sauce, giving the ravioli their signature aroma.

Minestrone alla genovese

Another classic is minestrone alla genovese, a vegetarian dish made with seasonal vegetables, legumes, and short pasta. Its secret lies in the final touch—a spoonful of pesto stirred in at the end—which ties all the flavours together.

Traditional Genoese Main Courses: Between Sea and Countryside

When it comes to main courses, Genoese cuisine reveals its two souls: one from the sea, based on preserved fish and inventive combinations, and one from the land, featuring white meats, vegetables, and herbs. The traditional main courses of Genoa are a blend of practicality and flavour, often the result of slow cooking and patient preparation.

Cima alla Genovese: A Masterpiece of Patience and Craftsmanship

Cima alla genovese is one of the signature dishes of Ligurian cuisine. It’s a veal pocket hand-sewn and filled with meat, eggs, cheese, peas, and sometimes offal, according to the oldest recipes. Once stuffed and stitched, it’s simmered slowly in aromatic broth, cooled, and served sliced.

Traditionally prepared for festive occasions such as Easter or family gatherings, it’s now a staple in many historic trattorias. Its charm lies in the craftsmanship: a dish that combines the precision of bourgeois cooking with the warmth of home tradition.

Stoccafisso accomodato and cappon magro

Stoccafisso accomodato is a humble yet flavourful fish dish. Dried cod is rehydrated and cooked slowly with tomato, olives, pine nuts, potatoes, and white wine. Each family has its own version, but the principle remains the same: a dish “made comfortable,” enriched through time and care.

Quite different is cappon magro, an elaborate preparation that began as a meatless dish for Lent. Over time, it became a festive centrepiece: layers of boiled vegetables, fish, seafood, and sauce arranged like a colourful pyramid.

Its origin is maritime—sailors would reuse leftover bread, vegetables, and fish to create a single hearty dish. Today it represents abundance and culinary skill, often served during Christmas and other celebrations.

Coniglio alla ligure and tomaxelle

Coniglio alla ligure (Ligurian-style rabbit) is a countryside classic, cooked with Taggiasca olives, pine nuts, herbs, and red wine. It’s a dry but aromatic dish where the sweetness of the meat meets the savoury intensity of the olives and rosemary.

Tomaxelle are small veal rolls stuffed with vegetables, minced meat, and cheese, cooked in butter, wine, and spices until tender and coated in a rich sauce. Both are homely, rustic dishes born from the idea of making the most of every ingredient.

Together, they embody the earthy side of Genoese cuisine—simple, patient, and full of authentic flavour.

Genoese Desserts: The Taste of Tradition

The sweet side of Genoa’s cuisine is less famous but deeply rooted in its history. Traditional Genoese desserts often began as festive dishes, prepared at home or in the city’s historic pastry shops. Simple ingredients—flour, butter, dried fruit, and candied peel—combine to create desserts that are never too sweet, meant for sharing on special occasions.

Pandolce Genovese: Tall or Short, the Taste of the Holidays

Pandolce genovese is the symbol of Christmas in Genoa. Its origins date back to the time of the Republic of Genoa, when it was baked as a gift for families and sailors before long voyages. The dough is rich with raisins, pine nuts, and candied orange peel, flavoured with orange blossom water and anise.

There are two main versions:

• Tall pandolce, the oldest recipe, made with sourdough and a soft texture;

• Short pandolce, a more modern version made with baking powder, crumblier and quicker to prepare.

Both are sliced and served during the holidays, often paired with sweet wine or sparkling wine. More than just a dessert, pandolce is a gesture of goodwill—a symbol of unity and celebration that still brings families together.

Canestrelli and sacripantina

Among the most beloved Genoese desserts are canestrelli, flower-shaped butter cookies dusted with icing sugar. Made with flour, sugar, butter, and hard-boiled egg yolks, they’re delicate and perfect alongside coffee or dessert wine.

Another local classic is sacripantina, a layered cake invented in the late 19th century at Pasticceria Preti in Genoa. It’s made of sponge cake, buttercream, zabaglione, and cocoa, topped with soft cake crumbs that give it its signature look.

A Journey Through the Authentic Flavours of Genoa

Discovering the traditional dishes of Genoa means uncovering the city’s heart. Each recipe tells a story—of fishermen, home cooks, and the scent of basil grown on the hills. From hot focaccia to pesto trofie, from cima alla genovese to festive pandolce, Genoese cuisine is a direct, genuine expression of the city’s spirit.

Visitors can experience this every day, moving from small shops to local markets, from historic restaurants to neighbourhood trattorias. Staying at Hotel Astoria (check out our offers!), located in the heart of Genoa, is the perfect starting point to explore the city on foot and discover its most authentic flavours. From here, it’s easy to reach the lively Mercato Orientale, the caruggi with their charming historic cafés, the Old Port, and the main streets where culinary tradition remains a living part of daily life.

Tasting Genoa means understanding its soul—simple, grounded, and full of character. A journey that begins at the table and continues through its alleys, aromas, and voices.